Tracey's Tastes

A coastal girl’s fall adventure through food, fun, and Finnish saunas in the heart of the Midwest.

🌆 Intro: A Little East Coast Meets Midwest Magic

It’s ironic that the 2010 TV show Hot in Cleveland was about three LA women who got “stranded” in Cleveland and decided to stay after realizing how fabulous it was. Well, I’m from the East Coast, not stranded (thank you very much), but I’m starting to understand exactly why they did.

I’m on a four-month adventure, and Cleveland just happens to be stop #2. Even better — my cousin lives here and promised, “You’ll love it!” So here I am. It’s fall, the leaves are changing, and so are the temperatures. Coming from the land of perpetual “southern weather,” my body — and my Frenchie, Lola — were in full meteorological shock. She’ll be needing her sweater soon, and frankly, so will I.

Luckily, my cousin has lived here most of her life and knows all the local gems, which meant I was in for some fun. Honestly, I knew nothing about Cleveland beyond the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. I mean, what else could there possibly be? (Spoiler: a lot.)

She lives in a Lake Erie–centric suburb called Rocky River, the kind of all-American neighborhood where lawns are manicured, porches are friendly, and Halloween decorations look like a competitive sport. After 20 years in beach-resort towns, this cozy Midwest charm feels brand new — and kind of wonderful.

💆‍♀️ The Finnish Sauna Experience at Sacred Hour

I arrived on a Thursday evening, and within hours, my cousin had us booked for a Finnish spa night at Sacred Hour in Lakewood. It’s inside a chateau-like building, so immediately I knew I was in for something special.

First, we relaxed in the salt therapy lounge — basically a warm cocoon where you lie on a heated daybed under a blanket and breathe in salt ions from the glowing wall. Bliss. Then, we suited up for the main event: the sauna.

A Finnish sauna, for the uninitiated, is a wood-paneled room heated to 175–230°F for sweating out all your bad life choices. You wear a wool beanie cap (to keep your head from overheating) and share the experience with a group — ours had about ten women. There was a moment when we were literally being gently thwacked, called sauna whisking, with leafy branches, followed by a cold plunge that made me reevaluate every decision leading up to that moment. But once we emerged and sat by the firepit sipping red wine under the stars, I was sold.

They do it monthly, and the spa also offers massages, facials, and all sorts of treatments that will definitely be on my “Cleveland to-do” list before I leave.

🍴 My Favorite Food Finds (So Far)

It’s been a whirlwind couple of weeks, but a delicious one. Here are a few of my favorite bites so far — each with its own unique flavor and story:

• Gather Food + Drink – Chic and cozy, with cocktails that sneak up on you.
  
• Bar Italia – Perfect pasta and that kind of lighting that makes everyone look ten years younger.
  
• Sakana Sushi Bar & Lounge – Fresh rolls and a vibe that says, “I might move here.”
  
• Chatty’s Pizzeria – Casual, family-friendly, and yes, chatty.
  
• Edacious – Small but amazing bites. We sat at the bar for dinner, and it was fantastic. The cocktail list was creative, and their bourbon menu was extensive — dangerously so.
  
• Astoria – Mediterranean-inspired, lively, and great for sharing plates. A perfect spot for date night or a long, lazy dinner with friends.
  
• Westerly’s – We munched on crispy pork belly over creamy polenta and gorgeous fall salads. The food looked like art and tasted like comfort.
  
• Close Quarters – And that it was! Generally standing-room-only, but what a fun and diverse crowd. I met a soybean farmer at the bar (as one does). It had that late-night “Cheers” vibe — everyone seemed to know everyone, and last call came too soon.

🌳 A Hike Worth Getting Lost On

Cleveland has no shortage of beautiful trails — not the calf-crushing kind from my New Hampshire visits to my sister, but wide, peaceful ones perfect for a crisp fall day.

My very first weekend here, we headed to the Rocky River Nature Center. The weather was pure autumn perfection — blue skies, golden leaves, and air just cool enough to justify a puffer vest. The nature center itself overlooks a 360-million-year-old shale cliff — yes, million — and the view from the deck is spectacular. There are about five miles of trails leading from the center, and while parking is tight, there’s usually a steady rotation of families coming and going.

We chose the Fort Hill Trail, which kicks off with 155 stairs. Yes, I counted. My heart was pounding, but hey — I knew I was alive! After that, the trail leveled out into gentle inclines and easy paths, making for a lovely two-mile loop through the forest.

The next weekend, I explored the French Creek Nature Center, another local favorite. It’s a wide, well-marked loop with side trails that all lead back to the main path. You can’t get lost… unless you’re me. We somehow managed to walk the loop backward — classic blonde move — but it was so gorgeous I didn’t mind one bit.

🏡 A Day in Chagrin Falls

About 45 minutes east of Cleveland sits Chagrin Falls, a charming little New England–style village that made me nostalgic for Connecticut. Founded in 1833, it was once a hub for craftsmen thanks to the Chagrin River, which powered nine mills — including an ax mill and a shoe peg factory. (Who knew “shoe peg” was even a thing?)

We had lunch at 17 River Grille, a two-story restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the falls. There’s also a heated wraparound terrace, which is basically where I want to live now. We watched two boys fly-fishing while we devoured grilled artichoke , fish and chips, and a salmon salad that was almost too pretty to eat.

Afterward, we wandered through the boutiques, bookstores, and home décor shops before stopping at the Historic Chagrin Falls Popcorn Shop, which started as a flour mill showroom in 1875. Today, it serves up artisan popcorn and ice cream — and yes, even George W. stopped by when he was president in 2004.

🇫🇷 Dinner at Lola’s

A few nights later, we went back to Chagrin for dinner at Lola’s, a new French restaurant with gorgeous décor, a lively crowd, and a menu that actually transported me back to France.

We ordered everything from escargot and mussels to steak frites, beef bourguignon, branzino meunière, and (of course) chocolate mousse. Not a bad night to be me.

🖼️ Coming Up Next: A Day at the Cleveland Museum of Art

Next on my Cleveland list –the Cleveland Museum of Art. I can’t wait to spend a day getting lost among Monets and Cézannes, standing way too long in front of the Impressionists, and smiling at how art always feels a little different depending on where you are in life.

Stay tuned — this East Coast girl is seeing Cleveland in full color.