Tracey's Tastes

If you missed Part 1 of my Camino journey, we began in Portugal with pastel de nata, Roman bridges, and birthday serenades. Pilgrim’s passports in hand, we collected our first stamps while winding through vineyards, villages, and the coastal paths of northern Portugal. Now, the Camino leads us onward—across the Minho River into Spain, onto the Ons Islands, and finally into the heart of Santiago de Compostela.

Day 3: Adiós Portugal, Hola Spain

After breakfast, we shuttled to the fortified town of Valença do Minho, the last town of the Caminho Português in Portugal, and the end of the 19th stage. We hugged the Minho River, the natural border between Portugal and Spain, to the town of Valença do Minho. We ventured into the beautiful Fortaleza de Valenca, a walled fortress dating back to the 17th century and built in the reign of King Afonso III to protect his nation from invasion from Spain. We spent our time doing a bit of shopping and refueling before crossing the bridge into Spain. Our pilgrim passports earned stamps at each border town, the ink a tangible reminder of crossing between two worlds.

The medieval town of Tui welcomed us, its narrow streets echoing with history. Some of us walked on, following the Louro River through grassy wetlands until we reached Pazo Los Escudos Hotel & Spa, a historic manor house overlooking the sea. Dinner that night was seafood heaven—mariscos fresh from the coast.

Day 4: The Ons Islands

On day four we stepped off the Camino to explore one of Spain’s most spectacular national parks – Maritime Terrestrial National Park. The park is made up of the archipelagos of Cíes, Ons, Cortegada and Sálvora. We boarded a private boat bound for Ons Nature Reserve with a year-round population of 63 residents (not counting thousands of seabirds). Trails looped along cliffs and beaches with the sea glittering below.

Lunch was at a local seaside restaurant specializing in Pulpo de Ons – octopus caught by hand, cooked with potatoes, garlic, and paprika – simply delicious. Rain came in the afternoon as we hiked back, ponchos snapping in the wind, but it didn’t matter. These were the moments that bonded us.

That night, we checked into the Parador de Santiago def Compostela, one of the oldest hotels in the world, built in 1499 as a hostelry and hospital for pilgrims and was commissioned by none other than King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella. Next door was the famed Cathedral of Santiago, where we had a tour and later attended high mass. We witnessed the awe-inspiring botafumeiro incense ritual—seven men pulling ropes to swing a massive incense burner across the nave. The smell, the smoke, the spectacle—it was unforgettable.

Day 5: Mountain of Joy

Our last walking day took us into the Galician countryside, along the most popular stretch of the Camino Francés. At the Monte do Gozo (Mountain of Joy), pilgrims catch their first glimpse of Santiago. For me, it was also a moment of release—I had carried some of my mother’s ashes on this trip, and I knew this was the place to scatter them. A massive cross stood tall on the hill, and there I let a part of her rest, woven into the journey of so many pilgrims before me.

Later that day, we walked the final miles into Santiago, joining throngs of other travelers, each one with their own story and reasons for walking. My pilgrim passport was filled with stamps, each one proof that I had walked, eaten, and laughed my way across two countries.

Our amazing group of women celebrated our accomplishment with dinner at A Horta d’Obradoiro, a Michelin-nod restaurant located inside a 17th-century home. Cocktails in the garden, dinner in a glass-walled greenhouse, laughter echoing across the table—it was the perfect exhale after days of challenge and reward.

Day 6: Farewell to Santiago

A few hearty souls rose for one last 4-mile hike. My cousin and I, feet thoroughly spent, opted instead for a leisurely breakfast and a final wander through Santiago’s cobblestone streets. We lingered in squares, peeked into shops, and soaked in the atmosphere one last time.

The journey home was predictably messy—flight delays, airport sprints, and all the usual tests of patience. But as I sat in Madrid’s lounge, glass of wine in hand, I thought back to the scallop shells, the Roman bridges, the seaside meals, and the sound of Fado music drifting through the night. The Camino had tested me, soothed me, and filled me up in ways I hadn’t anticipated.

Looking Ahead

Travel always plants seeds for the next journey. For me, that seed is Norway, where in 2026 I’ll be hiking the fjords from Voss to Bergen. Curated once again by the amazing Amy Quinn of Spirit Road Travel and the ground crew from BackRoads. We’ll explore and hike through Norway’s most iconic fjords, while favoring hidden trails that stay off the beaten path. Until then, I’ll carry the Camino with me—the scallop shell a reminder that the path is always waiting, one step at a time.