Tracey's Tastes

I think most travelers would agree — if the U.S. had a proper train system for personal travel across the country, we’d all be better for it. Imagine: seeing the countryside, reading a book, sipping a coffee, arriving in comfort… and all in blessed, reliable air conditioning. In Europe, however, you quickly learn that their definition of A/C is more… aspirational. Think “gentle suggestion of cool” rather than “meat locker at the grocery store.”

Boarding the Train from Villefranche-sur-Mer

My sister and I boarded our train in Villefranche-sur-Mer, bound for Cinque Terre. Easy-peasy, right? We just had to change trains twice. The trains were clean, punctual, and packed to the gills. And here’s a pro tip: if you’re an American traveling with a ginormous suitcase, you’re in for a game of Luggage Tetris.

Luckily, my brother-in-law had done his homework on Italian summer temps and had generously purchased a little wearable fan for my sister — the kind that hooks around your neck and blows directly on your face. A brilliant invention. I wish he’d bought two.

After five hours of train travel (and not much “cool” to be found), we arrived in La Spezia — the last train stop before our final destination, Portovenere. Portovenere, the so-called “sixth village” of Cinque Terre, isn’t accessible by train, so we planned to grab a taxi. But first… we needed a bathroom.

The €1 Restroom Experience

The La Spezia station did have a public restroom — for the small price of €1 per person. There was an older gentleman at a table collecting coins and handing out receipts. For a brief, horrifying moment, I wondered if the receipt was meant to be the toilet paper.

Note to travelers: always carry small bills and coins. I had enough for us, but the young backpackers in line ahead weren’t so lucky. I still feel a pang of guilt for not paying their way — bathroom solidarity is indeed a real thing.

Plan A: Taxi. Plan B: Bus.

Outside the station, we found the taxi stand… and about 20 people ahead of us in line. The fare to Portovenere was €40, and there was no telling how long the wait would be.

We struck up a conversation with a lovely Swiss couple also headed our way. After collectively side-eyeing the taxi queue, we all decided to try the bus instead. That meant hauling our suitcases nearly three-quarters of a mile through town to the bus stop — thank goodness for GPS, because the route was anything but straightforward.

The bus ride took about 30 minutes, winding along the stunning coastline. And blessedly, the A/C worked. I just sat back, enjoyed the view, and tried to forget I was still slightly damp from that train ride.

Hotel Roulette: The Belvedere vs. The Grand

Once in Portovenere, we said goodbye to our Swiss friends and wheeled ourselves over to The Belvedere Hotel, which we’d booked through Expedia. It looked fine online: waterfront, breakfast included, three stars.

Check-in with Eleanor at the front desk was… interesting. She cheerily informed us, “Oh, you’re lucky — you have a private bathroom!” Huh?

We took the tiny manual elevator (two people + two suitcases = no breathing room) up to our third-floor room. My sister took one sniff and said, “Nope. I can’t stay here. My asthma.” I took a deep breath and confirmed: yes, it smelled strongly of mothballs. Eleanor offered to “spray something” in the room. Um, no thanks.

We checked out immediately, paying the €6 city tax in cash (again — carry coins!) and were told the manager would call about the refund.

Across the street was The Grand Hotel. And it was grand. Emanuel, the manager — henceforth known as “Our Emanuel” — took one look at us and said, “Yes, madam, we can help you.” Moments later, we were checked into a gorgeous, A/C-blasting, stink-free room with a cute little terrace overlooking a courtyard. Yes, it came with a grand nightly rate, but at that point, the answer was a simultaneous, emphatic “YES.”

Negroni, Please.

The Grand Hotel’s rooftop bar and restaurant overlooks the harbor, Palmaria Island, and the shimmering Ligurian Sea. I switched my allegiance from Aperol Spritz to Negroni now that I was officially in Italy; my sister stuck to her margaritas. The mixologist knew his craft — we were in for a good few days.

For dinner, “Our Emanuel” recommended Antica Osteria Carugio, tucked into the narrow main street Via Giovanni Capellini. The interior felt like a stone grotto, cozy and centuries old. I had local oysters followed by homemade linguine with mussels in a light tomato sauce. My sister ordered trofie with pesto, the region’s signature dish. We paired it with a local red wine and waddled back to the hotel, full and happy.

Day One: Exploring Portovenere

Breakfast at the Grand Hotel was a European dream: fresh breads, cheeses, fruit, and rich Americano coffee, all enjoyed on the rooftop patio. Portovenere, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, sits on the Ligurian coast and is known for its regional natural park and nearby islands. The harbor is lined with pastel houses, while steep, cobbled streets climb up to the Doria Castle. Comfortable shoes are a must. And the best part — the church bells ringing in the distance were beautiful. Plus, we always knew what time it was!

• Castello Doria — Built in 1161, this Genoese military marvel offers killer views for the €5 entry fee.
• Church of St. Peter — Perched dramatically on a rocky promontory, built in 1277.
• Church of San Lorenzo — Dating to 1098, with beautiful architecture worth a peek.
• Portovenere Communal Cemetery — Includes a WWI Commonwealth grave and spectacular views.
• Lord Byron’s Grotto — Crystal-clear water in the Bay of Poets, where Byron famously swam to visit Percy Shelley.

By the time we finished sightseeing, we were starving. Lunch at Trattoria la Marina was fresh tomato-and-mozzarella salads (still no basil — ironic for pesto country), rosé for two, and our ongoing sidekick: French fries.

That afternoon, “Our Emanuel” arranged a ferry to a beach club across the harbor. For €50, we got chairs, an umbrella, and towels — far better than the €200 starting price for a front-row spot in France. The beaches here are very rocky; we practically crawled into the water, laughing at our gracelessness. Sister humor is the best, and definitely no modesty between us.

Dinner was back at the hotel’s Palmaria Restaurant, on the rooftop of course, with the town lit up and twinkling brightly around us. My sister had risotto with truffle and smoked pumpkin; I went for pappardelle with lamb ragu. The sommelier suggested a 2017 Pinot Nero di Marco Buvoli — the perfect ending to the day.

Day Two: Ferry Hopping and Trail Skipping

The plan was ambitious: ferry to Vernazza, hike the Sentiero Azzurro trail to Monterosso (about 5.5 miles). Ferries depart every half hour, though they’re often jam-packed — get there early to snag a good spot on the roof deck for the best views and photo ops.

Once we landed, we meandered through car-free Vernazza, shopped a little, and climbed the endless stairs to the trailhead. We needed to buy a Cinque Terre Trekking card to hike the trail (€7.5 for the day). The ticket booth guy told us it was 95°F, with a “feels like” of 105°. He asked if we really wanted to do this. I mentioned I’d seen a sign for wine tasting. He laughed, “Now that is a good way to spend the day.”

We agreed. No hike. Instead, we found a shaded harbor restaurant, ordered two salads, two rosés, and fries, and caught the ferry to Monterosso.

Monterosso is the largest of the Cinque Terre towns and the only one with a sandy beach — and it was packed, South Beach-style.

We skipped the crowds and walked straight to the end of town to see the Il Gigante statue of Neptune. This impressive statue of Neptune was built from concrete in 1910 by Arrigo Minerbi to decorate a private villa. It stands 14 meters high and Neptune is seen holding the waves at bay. Bombs from WWI and rough seas have destroyed his arms, his trident and a giant seashell, but he still stands as an impressive site not to be missed. Check check Monterosso – we caught the ferry back to Portovenere.

Our Last Night

Back in town, we did some last-minute shopping and stumbled on Il Timone, a stylish waterfront restaurant with a great vegetarian menu and fresh seafood specials. It was exactly the low-key, delicious meal we needed.

Back at the hotel, we packed our bags. “Our Emanuel” had arranged a 7 a.m. taxi to La Spezia for our train to Florence. The Cinque Terre chapter was closing, but Florence — and more pasta — awaited.

Next stop: Florence — the Renaissance city where every street feels like a museum, every meal deserves a standing ovation, and every sunset demands a Negroni in hand. Stay tuned for Part 3 —